/ the Arabbers in a changing city /


For decades, newspapers have been heralding the end of the Arabbers, the Baltimore tradition of African-American produce sellers who hawk by horseback. But the Arabbers have survived urban development, permitting and every other obstacle the modern city can throw at them for a simple reason: they are vital to the often impoverished communities they serve. At no time has the Arabbers’ integral role in the community been more apparent than during the COVID-19 pandemic. Levar Mullen, one of the lead Arabbers, and Food Rescue Baltimore, have partnered to distribute 7,000 pounds of free produce every week to struggling Baltimoreans, as well as masks, hand sanitizer, and public health information.